Themed guide · Food & drink

The Clear Danish Food Guide.

Smørrebrød is usually a lunch decision; a bakery works at the start of the day or for something to take away. A long restaurant dinner is a separate occasion. This guide helps you order and plan meals in Denmark without making every stop an attempt to eat the country’s most famous dish.

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📍 Read this first. If you came to Denmark to eat at Noma, book it months ago and stop reading. If you came to eat well, most of what you want costs 200–400 DKK and is around the corner from wherever you're staying. The bakeries alone are worth the trip.

Smørrebrød — the lunch that explains Denmark

Open rye bread, butter, one carefully chosen topping per slice, eaten at midday with a beer and a small glass of aquavit. That's the form. The content runs from pickled herring with capers to roast beef with remoulade and crisp onions, to shrimp under a snow of lemon and dill.

Smørrebrød is taken seriously here. There's a right way to stack a slice (you don't), a right order to eat them (herring first, then fish, then meat), and a right time of day (lunch, always). It's also one of the easiest, cheapest ways to eat brilliantly in Copenhagen.

Where we send people

Schønnemann — the institution. Open since 1877. Wood-panelled, busy at 12:30, slow at 14:00. Book ahead in summer. Around 200 DKK for two pieces and a beer.
Aamanns Etablissement — modern, polished, very good. The roast beef is the one to order.
Selma — natural-wine bar by day, smørrebrød tasting menu version of itself; smaller, more inventive.
Hallernes Smørrebrød (Torvehallerne) — counter inside the food market. Take a slice and a beer to the standing tables. The most casual entry point.

📍 What to skip. The "smørrebrød tasting menus" pushed at hotels and tour packages are usually €60 for what you'd pay €15 for at a counter. Go to a real smørrebrød place at lunch. Pay lunch prices.

The bakeries

Denmark is, quietly, the best country in Europe for pastry right now. Not for the supermarket "Danish" the rest of the world thinks it knows, but for cardamom buns, kanelsnegle (cinnamon swirls), and proper sourdough that's spent two days fermenting. The new-wave Copenhagen bakeries — Hart, Juno, Andersen & Maillard, Mirabelle — are reason enough on their own to plan a morning.

The four to walk to

Hart Bageri (Frederiksberg) — chef Richard Hart's bakery, ex-Tartine, ex-Noma. The cardamom bun is unimprovable. Go before 11 or it's gone.
Juno the Bakery (Østerbro) — small, beloved. The cardamom knot here is what people argue about with the Hart one.
Andersen & Maillard (Nørrebro) — bakery + roastery + coffee. The chocolate babka is the order.
Mirabelle (Nørrebro) — sourdough loaves, sit-down breakfast plates. Best for a longer morning.

Two of these four bakeries are in Nørrebro, and so is Manfreds below. If eating well is the point of your trip, we at Nord Guide suggest staying there: see hotels in Nørrebro on Booking.com.

📍 Local note. You'll be told the croissants at Hart are the best in Europe. They might be. We rotate between all four every week and we still can't decide. Try them all — they're €4 each.

New Nordic — the fine dining

Noma, Geranium, Alchemist, Jordnær — Copenhagen has more world-top-50 restaurants per capita than any city on earth. They're worth the experience if you're prepared for the cost (€350–€600 per person before wine), and book three to six months ahead.

The realistic tier — extraordinary food, half the price:

Alouette — one Michelin star, in a converted warehouse with elevator-only access. €180.
Iluka — Mediterranean-Nordic, natural wine, no tablecloths. Around €140 for the menu.
Hart Spiseri — wood-fired, casual sibling of Hart Bageri. Walk in. Around €60–80 for two courses.
Pluto — sharing plates, loud, brilliant. Pre-book.
Pompette — French-leaning, neighbourhood-perfect. Around €60.

For the full Michelin lineup including reservations help, our Copenhagen paid guides itinerary includes the booking-priority list and the exact times tables open online.

Traditional Danish — the dishes worth ordering

Most Danish home cooking is hearty, brown, and undersold. A handful of restaurants do it properly:

Stegt flæsk med persillesovs — crispy pork belly with parsley sauce and boiled potatoes. The official "national dish." Try it at Restaurant Kronborg or Krogs Fiskerestaurant.
Frikadeller — pan-fried pork-veal meatballs. Most bodegas do them; Restaurant Schønnemann for the polished version.
Smørrebrød med leverpostej — liver pâté, crispy onions, beetroot. Sounds wrong, tastes right.
Rødgrød med fløde — summer berry compote with cream. The pronunciation test Danes set foreigners.
Æbleskiver — small spherical pancakes eaten at Christmas with powdered sugar and jam.

Natural wine bars (where Copenhagen actually goes at night)

Copenhagen is a natural-wine city now. A glass of orange wine costs the same as a craft beer. The bars are small, warm, and where most of the best food after 8 PM is being served.

Manfreds (Nørrebro) — the prototype. Sit at the counter, eat the beef tartare, let them choose the wine.
Pompette — see above. Wine list is unusually careful.
Ved Stranden 10 — central. Cheese plate + half a glass of something obscure. Romantic.
Pasta La Vista — pasta + natural wine, the formula nobody can resist.

Food markets

Torvehallerne (Nørreport) — the classic. Glass halls, ~60 stalls, smørrebrød + coffee + cheese. Best for a quick lunch.
Reffen (Refshaleøen) — outdoor street-food market on the harbour, summer only. Loud, fun, family-friendly.
Broens Gadekøkken (Christianshavn) — smaller summer market by Nyhavn bridge.

If you want a guided food walk

We have mixed feelings about food tours — they often visit places that pay the tour operator more than they serve great food. The ones we occasionally recommend:

Copenhagen Food Tour by Foods of Copenhagen — small group, real local guides, 3.5 hours. Check dates & availability →
Smørrebrød & Beer pairing experiences — usually inside Torvehallerne or with a specific brewery. Worth it if you're new to Danish drinking culture. Compare smørrebrød tastings on GetYourGuide.

For meeting points, times and 2026 prices of the main food walks, see our Copenhagen walking and food tours guide.

Why the affiliate links. If you book a tour through these we get a small commission at no extra cost to you. We only list the operators whose current product details, booking terms and traveller feedback we have checked.

Practical answers

Is it worth booking Noma if I'm here for a weekend?

Only if you booked it months ago, because that's the only way you'll get a table. If fine dining is the point of your trip and Noma is full, Alchemist (theatrical, 50-course), Geranium (three-Michelin classic), and Jordnær are the equivalent tier. For a fraction of the cost, Iluka, Alouette and Hart Spiseri are remarkable.

What's the cheapest way to eat well in Copenhagen?

Bakery breakfast (€5), smørrebrød counter lunch (€15–20), natural-wine bar dinner (€35–50). That's a full day of brilliant food for €60. Cheaper still: a kebab from Yatak or Sultan, both ~€10 and excellent.

Do Danes really eat herring for breakfast?

No. We eat herring for lunch with rye bread and beer, like adults.

What about vegetarian / vegan food?

Copenhagen is one of the easiest cities in Europe to eat vegetarian or vegan. Almost every New Nordic restaurant offers a parallel veg menu. Specifically vegan: Souls (3 locations), 42° Raw, and ARK (one Michelin star, fully plant-based). Bakeries have plenty of egg-and-butter-free options too.